Photo News

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission. Sample galleryThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Please open this article's permalink in a browser to view this content.

All product photos: Richard Butler

The Fujifilm X half is a JPEG-only compact camera with a fixed focal length and a vertically orientated sensor, designed to mimic the experience of shooting with a half-frame film camera. It prioritizes fun over technical excellence.

Key features

• Vertical 18MP, 8.8 x 11.7mm CMOS sensor
• 32mm equiv F2.8 lens
• JPEG-only output
• 2-in-1 mode combining sequential shots into a 3:2 image
• Tunnel-style optical viewfinder
• Film Camera mode simulates the film camera experience
• 10 Film Simulations, 18 Filters
• Twin touchscreen interface
• Date stamp option
• 880 shot per charge rating when using OVF
• 'Film advance' lever
• Direct printing to Instax printers
• UHS-I SD card slot

The obvious reference point will, no doubt, be Fujifilm's own X100 series cameras, and we doubt Fujifilm will dislike the comparison, given their popularity. But, whereas the X100 cameras look a lot like miniature Leicas, the cute, boxy X half looks more like a Rollei 35.

The X half has a recommended price of $849 and is available in black, charcoal or silver. There's no obvious precedent for a camera like this and the uncertainty around the cost of importing items from China into the US makes it a little hard to make sense of, but it seems like a lot for a camera that's putting more effort into being fun than functional.

Index:

• What is it?
• Body and handling
• Image quality
• Smartphone app and connectivity
• Conclusion
• Sample gallery
• Specifications
• Press release

Buy now:

$849 at Amazon.comBuy at AdoramaBuy at B&H Photo

• May 22: Initial review published
• Jul 14: Film camera mode section amended, image quality, smartphone section and conclusion added. Sample gallery expanded.

What is it?

The Fujifilm X half is a fixed-lens camera built around an 8.8 x 11.3mm sensor. Those dimensions may not sound familiar but it's essentially a 4:3 crop from a 20MP 3:2 Type 1 sensor, turned on its side.

So, when Fujifilm talks in terms of half frame, it's talking about the 3:4 shooting experience you get from shooting half a frame of 135 film, not about mimicking the same capture area that would give.

It has a 10.8mm F2.8 prime lens, and that sensor's 2.94x crop factor means this gives a 32mm equivalent field of view and an F8.2-equiv maximum aperture.

Flicking the film advance lever just after you've taken a shot (or when you're reviewing an image in playback mode) lets you combine that shot with the next one you take.

Left image: Provia film sim | F2.8 | 1/800 sec | ISO 200
Right image: Provia film sim | F2.8 | 1/1600 sec | ISO 200
Photos: Richard Butler

You can shoot individual 3:4 vertical images, swiping on the Film Simulation window on the back of the camera to change your virtual film stock. Alternatively, if you flick the film advance lever after taking a shot, you can combine your previous and next images to create a side-by-side diptych. Both individual images are saved to the memory card, in addition to the combined version.

Film Camera mode

The X half is best understood through its Film Camera mode. Engage the mode and you'll be asked how many exposures you want on your virtual film: 36, 54 or 72. If those second two numbers look unfamiliar, remember that this is styling itself as a half-frame camera, so you can fit 72 shots on a '36 exposure' film.

"Once you start shooting, you'll have to use the film advance lever after each shot: the camera won't take another photo until you do"

When in film camera mode, you lose the live view on the back of the camera and have to compose via the optical viewfinder. You also lose the ability to swipe to change Film Simulation or filter: you're using a single roll of 'film,' after all.

And, once you start shooting, you'll have to remember to use the film advance lever after each shot: the camera won't take another photo until you do. Annoyingly there's a distinct lag after each shot before the film advance lever becomes active, so there's no point trying to develop a fast winding shooting style: the camera will ignore your input then wait for you to wind the roll on again.

The film camera mode interface is simplified, with a four-step zone focus option, if you select manual focus. Sadly the film advance lever, while feeling pretty solid, doesn't give any sense of mechancal feedback and it won't recognize your input if you try to 'wind-on' too soon after each shot.

Once you've taken all your photos, you can connect your camera to the app and transfer the photos, at which point you get to see a contact sheet and watch the images 'develop.' That contact sheet image, complete with sprocket holes, frame numbering (with the images numbered as 01, 01A, 02, 02A and so forth), can also be downloaded.

If you lose interest in a project before the end of the roll, you can double-tap the film window screen and the camera will 'rewind' the roll, leaving you with a partially-complete film strip. Fujifilm also warns that removing the memory card or the battery can result in film camera mode being abandoned.

we found the Film Camera mode to be fun, but the entertainment value waned quickly

In use we found the Film Camera mode to be fun, but the entertainment value waned quickly. 36 shots is a lot to combine as a single, cohesive project but if we were shooting over an extended period, the way you might have with real film, the temptation to swap filmstocks or regain live view so that we would tell what we were focusing on meant we abandoned most 'films,' mid-roll.

Filters and Film Simulations

One of the X half's main selling points is likely to be Fujifilm's film simulation modes, and the camera includes ten of the most popular ones.

• Provia / Standard
• Velvia / Vivid
• Astia / Soft
• Classic Chrome
• Reala ACE

• Classic Neg.
• Nostalgic Neg.
• Eterna / Cinema
• Acros (with Red, Yellow or Green filter)
• Sepia

The X half also has a range of Filter modes, including Toy Camera, Vignetting, Light Leak, Halation and Expired Film. These give more extreme looks than the film simulations, but include some fun options such as giving the expired film mode a green or red tint, or the light leak mode that applies a one of a selection red/yellow bursts across each image at random, which are only visible in the final image. Filters can't be combined with Film Simulation modes.

ISO and Autofocus

The camera's base ISO is 200 and there are three pre-defined Auto ISO settings, you choice is essentially whether the camera stops at ISO 800, 3200 or 12,800.

In terms of autofocus, you have a choice of two AF area modes: a large central point or an AF area that can be moved to one of nine positions. There are eye and face detection options on top of this, and the camera will prioritize faces in your scene, regardless of the AF position.

Autofocus is somewhat laggy and distinctly slow, though, so we found the camera to be much more dependable in AF-S mode. This is not a camera for action or moving subjects, really.

Video

The X half can shoot up to 1080/24 footage at up to 50Mbps, captured in a 3:2, 1080 x 1440 format. It can also shoot 2x slowmo footage. These video clips can be combined with still images in 2-in-1 diptychs, output as 2160 x 1440px MOV files. There's a 3.5mm-to-USB-C lead in the box, but this is for attaching headphones (?!?) rather than an external mic, as is the case on other Fujifilm models.

Body and handling

The X half is small, boxy and really rather cute: both its size and looks attract attention. It's also pretty well built. It feels like a lot of it is plastic but it's thick enough that the camera doesn't feel flimsy. It's small enough to fit in a coat pocket, despite the protruding lens.

The lens has an aperture ring around it, controllable in whole stops and with an 'A' position at one end, passing control back to the camera body. There is no other control dial on the camera, so there's no way to gain 1/3EV control of the aperture.

The camera's shutter tops out at 1/2000 sec, so in bright light you'll need to remember to stop down; especially if you're using the viewfinder, where there's nothing to indicate that your shots will be overexposed.

There's a narrow ring around the front of the lens that can be used for manual focus. The ring moves quite freely and the stepping of focus distances isn't very fine-grained, but it's there if you want it.

The lens is covered with a soft plastic lens cap. It's not the prettiest or most convenient feature, but ends up highlighting a benefit to the lens design: it doesn't change length. As such you never have to worry about stripping the gears or damaging a motor if you turn the camera on in your pocket or with the cap still attached.

The top of the camera is decidedly simple: a large exposure comp dial, that photo advance lever and an power switch, which releases the level from its stowed position. There's also a cold shoe slot in the middle of the camera. We're not really sure why.

The whimsy continues on the back, with a film-window-style rounded LCD panel that displays the currently active Film Simulation mode or Filter effect. It's a touchscreen, so you can swipe up or down to change mode (unless you're in Film Camera mode).

Next to this is the main display, a small, portrait-orientation 2.4" 640 x 480px touchscreen. In regular shooting mode this shows a live view display, just as you'd expect. Swiping your finger across the screen brings up one of four menus.

Swipe right

Swipe down

Swipe right

Swipe up

Swipe left

Swiping down gives you the choice between connecting to a smartphone and entering Film Camera mode.

Swiping right lets you select whether you're in Film Simulation or Filter mode. There are icons at the bottom of the screen to let you determine which of these modes applies to stills or video shooting. You don't select which of the simulations of filters you're using, just which mode the camera is in.

Swiping up brings up a quick menu, detailing eight of the camera's core settings:

• Exposure mode (P, S, A, M)
• Image size (L, M, S)
• Face/Eye detection setting
• Portrait enhancer

• Focus mode (MF, AF-C, AF-S)
• Self-timer (2s, 10s, Off, Continue)
• Grain (Roughness / Size)
• White balance

Finally, swiping left brings up the camera's main menu. It's a much-simplified variant of the one from other Fujifilm cameras, divided up into seven catagories: Shooting settings, Movie settings, IQ settings, AF/MF settings, Audio settings, Set up and Networking/USB settings. These catagories are navigated by swiping up and down on the film window, next to the main LCD.

The film advance lever

One of the only physical controls on the whole camera is the film advance lever. In normal camera mode its job is to engage 2-in-1 diptych mode, in Film Camera mode it acts as the film advance lever it mimics. Push the lever in towards the body in normal shooting mode and the camera will show you the last image you took, while the lever is held in. Again, we're not entirely sure why.

Battery

The X half takes the same NP-W126S battery as Fujifilm's other small cameras. It's a relatively large battery for such a small camera, making up something like 1/7th of the camera's volume. This helps power the camera to a rating of 880 shots per charge, if you use the OVF. We've not seen a figure for shooting with live view.

This is enough that you'll essentially never have to worry about charging the battery. The camera can charge over its USB-C socket, so all you need to do is remember to plug it in from time-to-time.

Image quality

This isn't the most sensible way to assess the X half's image quality, but we wanted to check how it compares to other cameras on the market. Our test scene is designed to simulate a variety of textures, colors and detail types you'll encounter in the real world. It also has two illumination modes to see the effect of different lighting conditions.

Image ComparisonThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

Ultimately, the X half isn't a camera where we think absolute image quality it critical to its appeal (most of its fun/retro rivals have much, much smaller sensors and consequently much noisier images with lower image quality). But it doesn't do terribly, in this regard, compared to enthusiast compacts. It doesn't pull as much detail out of its files as the likes of the Sony RX100 V. The Sony uses the full 116mm² of it Type 1 sensor, rather than the 103mm² crop used by the Fujifilm, but a 12% diffence isn't especially significant, as can been seen by looking at the high ISO images.

We'd suggest thinking about how and where you're likely to use the X half's images, then upload or output them via that medium and see how they look, rather than worrying about the nth degree of pixel-level performance. Or look at the sample gallery and ask yourself "could I have fun with that?"

Smartphone app and connectivity

One of the great paradoxes of modern compacts is that they exist as an alternative to smartphone cameras, yet need to be able to connect to them easily, and be used in conjunction with them.

The X half achieves this with its own, dedicated app. At its core, it seems to essentially be a version of the company's X app but with a simpler pairing system because there's only one model it has to know how to connect to. This means there's no ambiguity about how to pair the devices and little risk that updated to support future models will break its existing function.

The dedicated X half app lets you download images from the camera, 'process' the results of Film Camera mode or combine 2-in-1 diptychs. Click to see the full image.

Once connected, the X half app maintains a constant Bluetooth connection and is able to fire up Wi-Fi when you need to transfer images. The app itself lets you combine images into diptychs, just as the camera does, with a choice of the width, style and color of the divider between images. Unlike the camera you can also flip each image horiztonally, if that improves the composition. You can then select which images to share beyond the app, with the option to crop a central square from the each picture. It's all very straightforward.

The other function the app performs is 'processing' the output of the camera's Film Camera mode. You can't view any of the images taken in Film Camera mode until you've transfered them to the smartphone and waited for them to 'develop.' The images are then copied to your phone and seemingly deleted from the camera (though you can re-import and process the film if you wish: the images are still on your SD card, just placed in a different folder.

Finally, there's the option to connect directly to one of Fujifilm's Instax printers, which feels like one of the core ways they expect the X half to be used.

Conclusion What we like What we don't

• Stylish, fun camera
• Better image quality than most point-and-shoots
• Film simulations and filter modes make the pictures look interesting but still attractive
• Film sim 'window' touchscreen is [chef's kiss]
• Exposure comp dial gives direct access to the most important setting
• Optical viewfinder for shooting outdoors
• Good battery life
• X half app is simple and works well

• Expensive
• Touchscreens are a bit laggy
• AF is a bit slow and unreliable for people pictures or shooting in low light
• Film advance lever doesn't have any mechanical resistance
• Delay between taking a shot and the film advance lever being usable
• Viewfinder and rear screen give only a rough idea of what you're going to capture
• LED 'flash' has minimal effect

The more we use the X half, the more it confirms our initial impression: it's profoundly silly, and also a lot of fun. But absolutely inherent to its appeal is that it doesn't take itself seriously, so you shouldn't, either: doing so both misses the point and the appeal.

If you think the idea of swiping a 'film window' to select which retro filmstock the camera mimics is cute, then you're likely to be delighted by the way it takes cool-looking snaps whenever the whim takes you. If you are frustrated about its lack of Raw-shooting capability or fretting over how its images might look in a large print, you'd be better off with almost any other camera from Fujifilm's lineup.

If you look at the film window touchscreen on the back of the camera and think 'that's adorable' then the X half might be for you. If you're weighing it up against enthusiast compacts, you're barking up the wrong tree. Possibly in the wrong forest.

The X half is good-looking and handily small, making it a ready companion. It takes attractive images and has a well-judged touchscreen interface with mercifully few options to interact with. Most of the time, you'll need to set only exposure compensation and film simulation.

The Film Camera mode feels exactly like the design study that it started as: an amusing diversion that it's hard to imagine wanting to use too often, once the initial interest has waned. But if it helps inspire a photo project or two, then why not? After that, the faux film winder becomes a quick way to interact with the camera's diptych feature, which felt like something with more staying power, to us.

In purely objective terms, the X half isn't an especially good camera. The images are much better than most run-of-the-mill compact cameras, due to it having a much larger sensor, and its color rendering options are excellent, but it's not going to win any prizes if you start pixel peeping. It's also a fairly slow camera, with some touchscreen swipes being ignored and the laggy, simplistic and somewhat unreliable AF system undermining its appeal as a social camera.

It's good looking and easy to carry around with you.

The cost is also a concern. That larger sensor means it has to be more expensive than most of its 'just a bit of fun' peers, but the asking price, particularly the preemptively tariff-adjusted US one, is steep.

As a knowingly frivolous, endlessly entertaining carry-everywhere lifestyle accessory, the X half is great. And it's better than most second-hand point-and-shoots from yesteryear, in just about every respect: easier to use, more fun, better color. But the price tag requires quite a lot of commitment to the bit.

The things that makes the X half so endearing aren't the sorts of things measured by our scoring system, and trying to view it through that lens would be to take the camera (and ourselves) too seriously. Our awards, which are based on looking at the product from the perspective of the would-be buyer, still feel apt. Unfortunately, much as we enjoyed it, lack of dependability of face and eye detection detracts a little too much to let us award the camera a Silver.

Buy now:

$849 at Amazon.comBuy at AdoramaBuy at B&H Photo Sample gallery

Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter/magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing (in conjunction with this review); we do so in good faith, so please don't abuse it.

Sample galleryThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission. Photo: Mitchell Clark

On the surface, Fujifilm's recently announced X-E5 looks like a very familiar setup in a new body. Its combination of 40MP BSI CMOS sensor and processor has shown up in several previous Fujifilm cameras, such as the X-T5, X-T50, X-H2 and X100VI. Theoretically, that means it should provide very similar, but since we like to be thorough, we put a production copy in front of our test scene so we could make sure.

Our test scene is designed to simulate a variety of textures, colors, and detail types you'll encounter in the real world. It also has two illumination modes, full even light and low directional light, to see the effect of different lighting conditions.

Image ComparisonThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

As expected, the X-E5's Raw detail capture is identical to Fujifilm's other 40MP cameras, and it outperforms the 24MP Nikon Z5II and 26MP Sony a6700. Its images also have more detail than those from its 26MP predecessor, the X-E4.

Its base ISO noise performance is on par with the rest of the current-gen APS-C competition, and it's a bit cleaner than the X-E4; no surprise, given that its base ISO is 125 while its predecessors was 160. The full-frame Z5II, however, provides around a stop improvement in noise, which follows its increased sensor area.

These trends continue at mid to high ISOs, and the X-E5's lead in detail slips away past around ISO 1600.

The camera's JPEG engine isn't quite as good as its competitors at emphasizing fine details, even at base ISOs, so its lead isn't as apparent as it is in Raw. However, it continues Fujifilm's tradition of offering pleasing colors and does a decent job of retaining details even while reducing noise at higher ISOs, though its performance does suffer a bit in low-contrast areas.

Dynamic Range

This sensor has always offered excellent dynamic range with low read noise, and it's no different in the X-E5.

Exposure Latitude | ISO Invariance

This means it offers plenty of room to bring up shadows in post, so you can make the most of its maximum dynamic range at base ISO. Its design also lets you choose to extend dynamic range when shooting in low-light scenes, as long as you're willing to use a lower ISO to reduce blown highlights.

As expected, the X-E5 doesn't offer anything new in terms of image quality, though that's not necessarily a bad thing. Fujifilm's current generation of cameras have long been strong contenders in that department, and if you're trying to decide between them you only have to consider form factor and feature sets. If you don't prefer the rangefinder-styling, you're not giving up image quality by going with an X-T50 or X-T5 instead.

One of the great things about photography is how diverse the medium is. There are countless subjects and genres to focus on, offering opportunities for everyone to create images with their unique perspective. That's no different here at DPReview. Our photographic experiences and styles vary greatly, with each of using finding photography in different ways. We've previously shared what gear we take when traveling, but today, we're giving you a look into the genres and subjects that drive each of us.

Mitchell Clark

Someone didn't read the sign.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

I'm not entirely sure what to call my favorite genre of photography, but I always love capturing things that are out of place or in some other way ironic. Think a "no graffiti" sign in front of a thoroughly tagged wall, a drinking cup precariously perched on a piece of architecture or a machine that's obviously malfunctioned.* Essentially, it's anything that makes you tilt your head and go "huh!"

Graffiti and a piece of electrical equipment? My lucky day.

Photo: Mitchell Clark

A close second: infrastructure. High-tension power lines are one of my favorite subjects for reasons unknowable even to myself, but I'm also fond of capturing pipes, wires, pumps, junction boxes and the million other often-overlooked pieces of equipment that help our world run the way it does.

* Of particular interest: public displays or checkout stands whose computers have obviously crashed.

Richard Butler

My first 'ask someone if I can take their photo' portrait.

Photo: Richard Butler

The need to constantly shoot images for galleries means it's difficult to find the time to develop any sort of specialism. I never know what sort of camera or lens I'll be using next, so it's hard to focus on one particular style, genre or technique. However, I have developed a real enthusiasm for everyday portraits. It started with a camera launch in New York, during which I had a couple of hours to shoot as varied a gallery as possible. Eventually, I plucked up the courage to ask a stranger if they'd mind me taking their photo and, amazingly, they said yes.

Photo: Richard Butler

I still have an awful lot to learn and am always looking for an opportunity to practice, but I love the fact that a lot of portraiture has nothing at all to do with gear or technical knowledge: it's about your interaction with the subject. I was first drawn to photography because it combined the technical, which I can just learn with the aesthetic, where there's always room to improve. Ad hoc portraiture is a great example of that, and there's nothing more satisfying than a subject you don't know emailing you back to say that they like the shot you took.

Matt Waller Photo: Matt Waller

My love of photography started late in life, meaning I'm still in the phase of bouncing around and trying different genres. But the main driver for me has been black-and-white street photography. Certainly, this has taken my wandering feet to far-flung cities and even a couple of workshops (which incidentally I recommend as a great way to explore a city and meet like-minded souls).

At home in Seattle, my work for DPReview is part-time, and my second job, in a downtown skyscraper office, led me to find a weird street photography outlet of taking telephoto shots downward of roofs, streets and alleys. Is this a sub-genre? Do any other frustrated office-bound photographers do this?

Photo: Matt Waller

Speaking of my telephoto lens, I've put it to more traditional use by dabbling in bird photography. I find this a great way to get out into nature and a fun (and very challenging) form of photography.

Finally, in the last few years, I've started doing some corporate event photography. Though this obviously has "third job" potential, I think I want to keep my photography on the amateur side – so I can keep bouncing around and trying different genres!

Dale Baskin

The aurora borealis reflects off a lake in Canada's Northwest Territories.

Photo: Dale Baskin

As a photographer, I've captured nearly everything under the sun, but my favorite subject reveals itself at night: the aurora borealis. I've been photographing the aurora from northern latitudes for over a decade, and I never tire of seeing Mother Nature's own fireworks. The sheer variety of shapes, patterns and colors never ceases to amaze me. There's only one thing I love more than shooting the aurora: taking other photographers on the adventure and teaching them how to shoot it, too.

While the northern lights are a passion of mine, I've recently been drawn to photographing something entirely different: rodeo. I'll let you in on a little secret – getting good photos of riders in a rodeo arena isn't that hard. With a fast telephoto lens, a camera with a fast burst rate and a clear sightline, you're bound to get some keepers.

A cowboy tries to mount a restless bronco at a small town rodeo in western Montana.

Photo: Dale Baskin

However, I quickly discovered that the real story of rodeo isn't in the center of the arena, but in places that spectators don't usually get to see. So instead, I started using a wide-angle lens, working behind the scenes to capture the soul of the rodeo, like riders prepping for their events, rodeo clowns applying makeup or cowboys just hanging out and trading stories.

However, my favorite place to shoot is right up against the chutes, the small pens where riders saddle up for their eight seconds of insanity. Working just inches from a snorting bull or a kicking bronco, you feel a sense of raw power, and the explosion of energy as a rider bursts out of the gate can almost knock you off your feet. It's the most intense, adrenaline-pumping photography I've ever done. And I'm absolutely hooked.

Abby Ferguson

My graduate thesis involved multiple exposure images of staged still life scenes. These were then printed on transparency film and either mounted to plexiglass or suspended from the ceiling on red string.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

If you had asked me this question a few years ago, I would have been able to answer easily. Yes, like most photographers, I've shot a wide range of genres. However, for a very long time, I focused my personal work on conceptual still life imagery, either found or staged. My graduate thesis was entirely still life related, and that subject, along with light and shadow, remained important to me for a long time.

Lately, though, I've been going through a bit of a crisis with my photography, and identifying a clear genre is more difficult. I haven't been photographing many formal still life scenes, partly due to space constraints, partly due to motivation. My conceptual work has also largely fallen by the wayside (though I've had the itch to pick it back up). Instead, my photography has been a lot less focused on one specific area as of late.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Light and shadow remain favorite subjects though. I love capturing unique natural light on small, often overlooked details no matter the genre. If those details are broken things, like shattered glass or a rundown building, even better. So while I don't necessarily find myself gravitating towards a clear, well-defined genre these days, I do still see a consistent thread throughout much of my work.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Photographers are often told that they need a specialized camera bag to carry their gear. There's certainly no shortage of options these days, with a long list of brands and styles available. And while it's important to keep your expensive camera gear safe even when out and about, a dedicated camera bag isn't necessarily the only way to do that.

Can you put a camera in a backpack?

A camera insert can allow you to use any backpack as a camera bag.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Simply put, a dedicated camera bag isn't necessary for many people and situations. They are often bulky and heavy. They typically don't work well if you need to bring a lot of things other than camera gear, making them challenging to travel with. They can also be conspicuous, raising the risk of theft. Plus, it can be hard to get the fit right, and spending a lot of money on a bag just to avoid using it because it's uncomfortable is far from ideal.

Most people already have a backpack or bag that they like carrying around, and may have occasionally even used it to carry cameras that have been carefully wrapped in a jacket or other articles of clothing. While we wouldn't recommend that too often, and would strongly advise against just tossing your camera loose inside a pack, the bag you already have could serve your camera bag needs with a simple accessory. Instead of buying a new bag that can only be used with your cameras, you could buy a much more affordable camera insert that goes inside your favorite pack.

Many companies, including Peak Design, Wandrd, Lowepro, and more, make padded inserts allowing you to safely store your camera in any bag. They are easy to move around to different bags as needed, giving you much more flexibility. Plus, you can take it out and use your backpack or bag without any camera gear. Just be sure you aren't packing the insert at the bottom of your bag with a lot of weight on top; they offer padding for protection, but aren't crushproof.

For casual outings when I'm traveling light, a small sling is plenty for my camera.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

If you only have a small compact camera, an insert is likely more than you need. As long as you carefully consider where you are packing your camera in your bag, you should be okay without a specific case. Just ensure it won't have too much weight on it and that it won't get hit when setting the bag down or moving around.

When should you use a dedicated camera bag?

For lots of gear, a dedicated camera bag or case is often a must.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Inserts in everyday bags work well for many people, but a dedicated camera bag is a smart move for some. Wedding and event photographers who need multiple bodies and a full kit of lenses, for example, should invest in a camera bag. After all, inserts are generally smaller and not made to handle a lot of gear.

All that gear will also be heavy, and you want a pack that will allow you to distribute the weight well, saving your back over time. Camera backpacks are typically made with that weight in mind (the good ones, at least), making them more comfortable when loaded up. That is especially useful if you'll be wearing the bag for long periods, too.

If you're a professional photographer, you likely need plenty of accessories when you head to shoots as well. You need to find a home for things like extra batteries, filters, a cleaning kit, flash and, of course, snacks. Camera backpacks often have better organization options than standard packs, helping you keep all your gear organized and easy to find.

The back panel on this bag provides faster access to my camera than a typical backpack with an insert would.

Photo: Abby Ferguson

Many dedicated camera bags have another advantage over regular bags with inserts: quick access. An insert inside a bag requires you to take the bag off your back and open two things, potentially with some digging involved. Dedicated camera bags, though, typically make it easier to access your gear fast. Some even offer side access to get your camera out without even taking the pack off. So, if you need to keep your camera tucked away but still have easy access, a dedicated camera bag is the way to go.

Consider how you'll be using the bag

Whether or not you need a dedicated camera bag depends on your gear, where you'll be using it and your preferences. For travel and casual day trips, a camera insert in a normal backpack is likely a good move. However, a dedicated, well-designed camera bag will make a significant difference in comfort and organization for those carrying a lot of equipment, especially for long periods.

Larval smooth angler fish.

Photo: Ryo Minemizu

Underwater photography is a challenging genre to tackle. But the complexity is significantly amplified when you add subjects that are only a few millimeters large, and pitch-black nighttime conditions. Yet that's exactly what photographer and diver Ryo Minemizu is doing with his nighttime dives, also called blackwater dives. Minemizu took the time to answer some questions while on a sailboat in the Pacific Ocean, providing insight into how he captures incredibly unique creatures in the ocean.

When Minemizu started taking photographs while diving, he simply wanted to capture beautiful underwater landscapes and life forms easily visible to the naked eye. Eventually, though, he became more interested in what wasn't obvious, seeking out things that were often overlooked and fleeting moments that didn't get attention. "I was drawn not only to their beauty, but also to the strength and skill required for survival, and the deep significance of life itself," he said.

Polka dot ribbon fish.

Photo: Ryo Minemizu

To find those fleeting moments, Minemizu has to dive in locations and times when most aren't venturing into the sea. Night dives opened up a new perspective, allowing him to capture creatures in, quite literally, new light. Minemizu also decided to focus on creatures that don't typically get attention. But that makes for tricky photographic scenarios. "Blackwater dive photography is arguably one of the most challenging and relatively new frontiers in the world of underwater macro photography," he said.

"Blackwater dive photography is arguably one of the most challenging and relatively new frontiers in the world of underwater macro photography"

The dark conditions are perhaps the most obvious challenge. Minemizu says that for blackwater dives, a rope with multiple lights attached is suspended beneath a buoy, but its main purpose is safety-related, not for photography. In fact, "lights suspended from the buoy should be as dim as possible to avoid any negative impact on the natural environment," he explains. Instead, he said that divers mainly search for subjects in complete darkness, only using handheld underwater lights as they find them.

A string of lights hangs from a buoy, but only for safety reasons.

Photo: Ryo Minemizu

When it is time to light up a subject, Minemizu relies on five lights: two Marelux Apollo III 2.0 strobes for ultra-high-speed flash photography, two RGBlue (Super Natural Color) lights with high color rendering for use as target lights and for video recording in the dark ocean, and one INON LE-250 light used to illuminate subjects that exhibit phototaxis (when an organism moves in response to light). He uses the maximum flash sync speed to freeze movement, since the tiny creatures are constantly in motion. But it's not a set it and forget it situation. "Both the exposure and flash intensity are manually adjusted on site to suit the transparency of each subject," he explains.

While light is necessary in pitch-dark conditions, it can also have negative impacts. "Each subject has its own unique characteristics and behaviors," Minemizu explained. "For example, some would close their fins and begin to swim away the moment a light is pointed at them or quickly vanish into the darkness." As a result, he has to anticipate the subject's next move, rapidly assess how it will react to light and how it might behave, and make on-the-spot decisions about lighting. "This involves choosing the right color tone, the best angle for illumination and the appropriate light intensity," he said.

The size of his subjects is another significant challenge. Minemizu is primarily focused on photographing plankton, fish larvae and other minuscule creatures that only measure a few millimeters to a few centimeters. To show them at a large enough scale, Minemizu has to get very close to them. But the water between the lens and the subject adds more complexity. "Even small currents created during movement can disturb the subject’s posture, especially when operating near the minimum focusing distance," he explained.

Zoea larva of the scarlet shrimp.

Photo: Ryo Minemizu

The constant motion also makes it difficult to find and track subjects. "One of the most important tasks is to find the subject through the viewfinder and keep track of it without losing sight," Minemizu said. To help with that, he explains that a standard macro lens with a shorter focal length (around a 50 to 60mm equiv lens) is more effective than longer lenses. Focus is also a unique challenge. Keeping an animal's eye in focus while it moves around on dry land can be difficult, but imagine keeping that critical focus on a tiny subject floating around in the dark while underwater. After all, both Minemizu and the subject are moving in the current, so he only gets a brief window to engage.

Naturally, there's the gear component to consider as well. Minemizu uses Nauticam housing and the Canon EOS R5 with the EF-EOS R converter. For lenses, he sticks with the EF-S 35mm F2.8 Macro IS STM and EF-S 60mm F2.8 Macro USM lenses. He's opted for APS-C lenses because the equivalent focal lengths are ideal for his subject matter, especially the 35mm lens. He says he's eagerly awaiting an "RF-mount standard macro lens that fully takes advantage of a full-frame sensor’s capabilities," however.

Minemizu's setup weighs 14kg (31lbs), but is perfectly balanced for working underwater.

Photo: Minemizu

Minemizu says that on land, his setup weighs 14 kilograms (about 31 pounds). To manage that heft underwater, he adjusts the balance and weight using float arms so the camera is perfectly level and neutrally buoyant, meaning it isn't sinking or floating. Those float arms are attached to the top and bottom, making it easier to rotate the camera vertically.

Beyond all the technical challenges, blackwater dives introduce physical risk. For safety reasons, Minemizu says he limits his dives to 25 meters (82') at night, though most are between 10 and 20 meters (32.8 to 65.6'). Occasionally, the subject he's photographing will begin to descend to deeper water, and he'll need to decide whether to follow or not. "Following it too far can become dangerous," he said. "In such cases, I need to maintain discipline and accept that there are moments I must let go."

Larval margined flying fish.

Photo: Ryo Minemizu

While Minemizu's images are beautiful, they also contribute to science. Some of the subjects he's photographed are entirely new scientific observations. "In order to recognize such cases on the spot, it is essential for me to have a broad knowledge of plankton, acquired through my own study," said Minemizu. He is working in collaboration with scientists from the Smithsonian Institution and conducting joint studies with universities and specialists studying jellyfish, cephalopod larvae, crustacean larvae and the larvae of various other invertebrates.

You can see more of Minemizu's incredible images on his website.

Sample galleryThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab. Photos: Ryo Minemizu

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission. Photo: Richard Butler Image ComparisonThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

With the S1II, Panasonic continues the tradition of offering "open gate" recording that uses the entire sensor area, which, like with the S5II, produces a roughly 6K 3:2 image (though the S1II's rolling shutter is substantially faster). This mode provides great levels of detail and more flexibility in post; if you're working on a 4K timeline, you have a fair amount of room to reframe a shot, and you can use the same footage for both landscape and vertical output.

The camera also has a 5.1K open gate mode with a little less resolution and detail. That cuts down on its flexibility, but allows for a first for full-frame Lumix cameras: open gate recording at 60p. The 5.1K 24p and 60p modes apparently have the same level of detail.

The camera's 4K modes are all oversampled from 6K capture, and have similar levels of detail to those of competitors like the Z6III and EOS R6 II, even at up to 60p. The S1II can't quite manage full-width 4K 120p, but the mode only requires a 1.24x crop, rather than a 1.5x crop like with the Z6III. So while there's some reduction in detail compared to the slower framerates, it does capture a tad more detail than the Nikon, and will come with a smaller change to your field of view.

If you don't prefer oversampling, the S1II also offers a 16:9 5.9K capture mode and a 1.89:1 5.8K capture mode, both of which are available at up to 60p. The extra resolution offers a bit more detail and more flexibility in post, though not quite as much as the 6K open-gate mode.

Raw video

Like the S1RII, the S1II can record ProRes Raw internally, capturing a native 5.8K region of the sensor at up to 30p, or a native DCI 4K region at up to 60p. This mode may be useful for those on professional shoots that need the utmost control over their footage, but for reasons we explained in the S1RII writeup, Raw video isn't something that most shooters will likely find useful. In short, it doesn't offer the same benefits that stills shooters expect from Raw images versus JPEG ones, and it will require a lot of post-processing work, especially if you're using modern mirrorless lenses that have geometric distortion correction as part of their optical formula, as Panasonic's implementation of ProRes Raw doesn't embed them.

The S1II is absolutely bursting with video modes, so this overview is far from comprehensive. Our chart detailing them in our initial review covers 166 different options, and it isn't even a complete list of all the configurations you can have. However, our testing shows that it's very capable of producing high-quality footage, even at fast framerates. Combine that with all the video assistance features that Panasonic includes, and it's one of the most flexible hybrid shooters we've seen.

This video is part of our Intro to Photography series, where we break down some of the fundamental concepts of the image-making process. You can find a written version below.

What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed, along with aperture value, is one of the fundamental properties of exposure: ie, how much light your camera gets exposed to. A faster shutter speed helps freeze action, whereas a slower one lets in more light but can result in blurred movement.

How do I choose my shutter speed?

There are two important factors to consider when choosing a shutter speed: how fast is my subject moving? And if that's not a concern, how steadily can I hold the camera?

For sports and action, you'll need a very high shutter speed. For portraits of a subject who's posing, you can get away with something much slower, but in low light, there'll be a limit to how long you can hold the camera without shaking it, even if your camera or lens has image stabilization.

Left: a photo shot at a 30-second shutter speed. Right: a photo shot at a 1/1600 shutter speed

Working at the other extreme, long exposures can give some interesting creative effects: blurring the motion of crowds or traffic, or conveying a flowing effect with water, rather than freezing its movement.

Much of the time, you're more likely to want to set your shutter speed (or let your camera set the shutter speed) in response to your choice of aperture value and the light level in your scene.

We'll be continuing this series with more discussions on the fundamentals of exposure and photography. Check back soon for links to more entries!

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission. Photo: Richard Butler

With the release of the S1II, Panasonic became the second company to market a camera with a "Partially Stacked" sensor, which uses more sophisticated readout circuits to get data off the sensor faster than possible with existing BSI designs. (Though not nearly as fast as fully Stacked designs allow.) We've had the chance to put it in front of our studio test scene to see how it performs in terms of image quality and dynamic range.

Our test scene is designed to simulate a variety of textures, colors, and detail types you'll encounter in the real world. It also has two illumination modes, full even light and low directional light, to see the effect of different lighting conditions.

Image ComparisonThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

The S1II performs well at shooting our test scene, providing great image quality. Looking at base ISO Raws, the S1II captures similar levels of detail as the other 24MP full-frame cameras on the market*, though Panasonic's JPEG engine doesn't seem to get rid of quite as much moiré artefacting as Nikon or Canon's.

Speaking of that JPEG engine, we've been pleased with Panasonic's colors for a while now, and the S1II is no exception; like the rest of its competition and the company's previous cameras, its colors are solid.

At mid ISOs to high ISOs the S1II's noise levels are competitive. Its JPEG engine does an admirable job of reducing noise while still retaining detail.

* The S1II's price puts it in competition with much slower, but higher-resolution cameras like the Sony a7CR and Panasonic's own S1RII; if you care more about image quality than speed, that's worth noting.

Dynamic Range

The S1II provides a good amount of dynamic range, giving you room to pull your shadows up without the detail being overwhelmed by noise. However, given the lack of chroma noise visible in our tests, it seems like there may be some noise reduction going on, either in ACR or in-camera. Either way, there's plenty to be squeezed out of the files, with no nasty surprises, though you will see the effects of a little extra read noise if you're shooting at base ISO to maximize dynamic range.

Exposure Latitude | ISO Invariance

This is still a relatively new sensor, but it seems like Panasonic is getting a lot out of it. The S1II's image quality is very similar to other 24MP full-frame cameras with much slower burst rates and less capable video specs. Speaking of, be sure to stay tuned: tomorrow we'll be taking a look at video stills from the S1II.

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission. Image: Canon

Canon has finally announced US availability and pricing details for the RF 75-300mm F4.0-5.6, a budget full-frame lens that it introduced earlier this year. When it initially launched in April, the company shared details about its global launch, but made no mention of the US market, potentially because it was waiting to see how tariffs would shake out.

The lens will cost $219 on its own, and will also be available as part of a "Double Zoom Lens Kit" for the EOS R100, which will include the camera, the RF 75-300mm, the RF-S 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 and a camera bag for $799. Both will be available sometime this month.

While the lens is technically new, it's essentially the same as the 26-year-old EF 75-300mm F4.0-5.6 III, just with a new mount. That lens has never been renowned for its image quality, but it does offer a lot of reach at a very accessible price.

Speaking of price, it appears that US tariffs haven't made a huge impact on this lens; the EF version has been sold at $199 since well before the tariffs, and the RF version's higher price could just as easily be chalked up to the new housing as the cost to import it.

Buy now:

$159 at Amazon.com Canon RF 75-300mm F4.0-5.6 specifications: Principal specificationsLens typeZoom lensMax Format size35mm FFFocal length75–300 mmImage stabilizationNoLens mountCanon RF, Canon RF-SApertureMaximum apertureF4–5.6Minimum apertureF32–45Aperture ringNoNumber of diaphragm blades7OpticsElements13Groups9FocusMinimum focus1.50 m (59.06″)Maximum magnification0.25×AutofocusYesMotor typeMicromotorFull time manualNoFocus methodExtending frontDistance scaleNoDoF scaleNoPhysicalWeight507 g (1.12 lb)Diameter71 mm (2.8″)Length146 mm (5.75″)MaterialsPlastic barrel, metal mountSealingNoColourBlackZoom methodRotary (extending)Power zoomNoZoom lockNoFilter thread58 mmHood product codeET-60Tripod collarNoOptional accessoriesSoft Case LP1019

Image: Samsung

Samsung has announced its latest folding smartphones, the Galaxy Z Fold 7 and Galaxy Z Flip 7. Both have improvements over their predecessors, but the higher-end Z Fold has one that's especially exciting for people who like taking pictures: it adopts the main camera from the company's flagship S25 Ultra, which it says will capture "4x more detail" and produce "44% brighter" images than the camera in the previous Z Fold.

Galaxy Z Fold 7

Compared to more traditional smartphones, foldables often compromise on camera performance because of space constraints; each half of the phone is usually substantially thinner than the typical candybar phone.

That's especially true for the Z Fold 7, which has slimmed down substantially compared to its predecessor: it's now 8.9mm thick when closed, compared to 12.1mm, and weighs 215g instead of 239g. Theoretically, this should make it more comfortable to use the front "cover" screen, as it'll be closer to the experience of using a non-folding phone. That display has also gotten an upgrade: it's 6.5" instead of 6.3", and slightly higher resolution.

The Z Fold 7 has three rear cameras, and two selfie cameras.
Image: Samsung

Despite the phone's thinness, the main camera has gotten some big improvements. The Z Fold 6 used the cameras from Samsung's mid-range S24+ flagship, which meant it's main camera was a 50MP Type 1/1.56 (50mm²) sensor behind an F1.8 lens. The Z Fold 7, meanwhile, gets the 200MP Type 1/1.3 (72mm²) sensor and F1.7 lens from Samsung's top-tier standard smartphone.

That means that, at least for the camera you're using most, you're not compromising by picking Samsung's foldable instead of its standard smartphone. That's good news for those who like big screens; the S25+ is no slouch with a 6.9" display, but that doesn't quite match the Z Fold 7's new 8" interior screen, which offers even more real estate than the 7.6" one found on its predecessor.

Of course, there are still trade-offs. For one, Samsung seems to have solved the space problem by just making the camera bump massive; YouTube reviewer MKBHD shows that the phone can't even come close to sitting flat on a table thanks to the protrusion. The phone's ultra-wide camera is also a downgrade compared to what you'd find on the S25 Ultra, and the Z Fold 7 doesn't have a "periscope" camera for even more zoom.

Galaxy Z Flip 7 Galaxy S25 Ultra Galaxy Z Flip 6 Main camera 200MP
Type 1/1.3 (72mm²)
F1.7 200MP
Type 1/1.3 (72mm²)
F1.7

50MP
Type 1/1.56 (50mm²)
F1.8

Ultra-wide camera 12MP
Type 1/2.5 (25mm²)
F2.2

50MP
Type 1/2.5 (25mm²)
F1.9

12MP
Type 1/3.2 (15mm²)
F2.2 Telephoto camera

10MP
Type 1/3.94 (10mm²)
F2.4

10MP
Type 1/3.52 (12.5mm²)
F2.4 10MP
Type 1/3.94 (10mm²)
F2.4 Periscope camera N/A 50MP
Type 1/2.52 (25mm²)
F3.4 N/A

Of course, cameras aren't the only thing Samsung changed this generation. The company says the Z Fold 7 has a thinner and lighter hinge, more durable glass for the cover display and a more powerful SOC with improvements to the tune of 38% in CPU and 26% in GPU compared to its predecessor. The selfie camera on the main screen is also now higher resolution, and provides a wider field of view.

Of course, none of this comes cheap. While the Z Fold series has always broken the bank, the latest iteration now starts at $1999 for a model with 256GB of storage, $100 more than its predecessor. You can pre-order it now, and it'll be available on July 25th.

Z Flip 7 Image: Samsung

The changes to Samsung's smaller, less expensive Z Flip phone are a bit more subtle. The main cameras – a wide 50MP Type 1/1.57 (50mm²) and ultra-wide 12MP Type 1/3.2 (15mm²) – are unchanged from its predecessor, and it's actually a gram heavier. However, for that minuscule increase in weight, you get a bigger battery and a much larger cover screen; 4.1" versus 3.4".

That front screen now basically runs edge-to-edge on the phone's front cover, and should be more responsive as it has a 120hz refresh rate, where the old one topped out at 60hz. It's also much brighter, peaking at 2600 nits instead of 1600.

The interior display is also a touch bigger at 6.9" versus 6.7". However, the biggest change is even deeper inside the phone: it now uses a Samsung-designed Exynos SOC, rather than a Qualcomm Snapdragon one. Historically, some Exynos-equipped models haven't performed as well compared to their Snapdragon counterparts, so it'll be interesting to see how the phone performs once reviewers get their hands on it.

Unlike the Z Fold, the Z Flip is the same price as its predecessor, starting at $1,099 for a 256GB model. It will also be available starting on July 25th.

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission. Photo: Mitchell Clark

We've put the Nikon Z5II through our studio scene as part of our upcoming review. And it's fair to say it doesn't present any major surprises. But we thought it's worth stepping back a bit to acknowledge what we perhaps risk taking for granted.

The Nikon Z5II is the company's entry-level full-frame mirrorless camera. Its launch price of $1699, body only, means it's not quite as inexpensive as the original Z5, but there are still only four full-frame digital cameras that have been launched for a lower price, so it's not uncompetitive.

But, whereas the original Z5 used a relatively elderly sensor to differentiate it from the higher-end Z6 II, the Z5II uses the same sensor as the more expensive Zf. And, while it's not the newest chip on the block, it's still being introduced in new models from Sigma and Panasonic, so shouldn't be considered unacceptably out-of-date.

Studio test scene Image ComparisonThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

The test scene throws up no surprises at all: detail capture is consistent with other 24MP full-frame cameras, as is noise performance at high ISO. Default JPEG color is the usual Nikon response: on the punchy side of accurate, which is a result a lot of people like.

JPEG sharpening pulls out a lot of fine detail, though false color isn't as well suppressed as in the Canon's files. Noise reduction smoothes away a little more detail than its peers, but overall, the results are very solid.

This is a well-known sensor, so the results aren't surprising, but until recently, you had to spend a fair amount more than this to get the same combination of IQ, handling and autofocus performance.

Today marks the beginning of Amazon Prime Day (or really Prime Week), which means discounts on just about anything you could imagine. Instead of bombarding you with many long lists of Prime Day deals, we'll be sharing some of the things we would actually recommend buying, and some we may even be adding to our own carts.

First up are accessories that are worth picking up when they are on sale. We've looked at the pricing history for each item to ensure it's actually a deal, so you can trust you'll be saving money. We'll update this throughout the week, so be sure to check back, and if you see anything worth sharing, let us know so we can spread the word.

Memory cards

I try to buy memory cards exclusively during shopping holidays like Prime Day or Black Friday. They aren't fun or exciting, so I like to avoid paying full price for them. Luckily, there are almost always fantastic deals on these during Prime Day, and this year is no exception. Some of these are even the lowest prices they've been on Amazon in the last three months.

SanDisk 256GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II V60 Memory Card $60 (was $80)

SanDisk 256GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II V90 Memory Card $180 (was $263)

SanDisk 256GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I Memory Card $30 (was $45)

Lexar 128GB (2-PK) Professional Silver Pro SDXC, UHS-II, V60 Memory Card $52 (was $80)

PNY 128GB Elite-X Class 10 U3 V30 SDXC (2 Pack) Memory Card $20 (was $26)

SanDisk 2TB Extreme microSDXC UHS-I Memory Card $165 (was $200)

Hard drives and SSDs

Hard drives are another item I avoid buying unless they are on sale. So, come Prime Day, I look out for any deals on portable SSDs or desktop drives to help me keep my work backed up while saving some money. Since they are higher-priced items, there are generally steep discounts during Prime Day.

Samsung T9 Portable SSD 4TB $266 (was $550)

Samsung T7 Portable SSD, 2TB $120 (was $200)

Western Digital 2TB My Passport SSD $130 (was $200)

Western Digital 14TB Elements Desktop External Hard Drive $170 at B&H (was $380)

Cleaning and protection

While cleaning tools aren't expensive at full price, saving a little something is always nice. Rugged cases, on the other hand, are rather expensive. Pelican cases rarely go on sale, but there are some discounts on ones with padded dividers this Prime Day, making it a great time to pick one up.

Pelican Vault V600 Hard Case With Padded Dividers $160 (was $200)

Pelican Vault V550 Hard Case With Padded Dividers $128 (was $160)

K&F Concept 4-in-1 Camera Cleaning Kit $17 (was $22)

K&F Concept Professional Lens Cleaning Pen $12 (was $18)

Mobile accessories

Whether you're a content creator or simply looking to up your smartphone photography and videography game, there are some excellent deals on mobile accessories right now.

Insta360 Flow 2 Pro Smartphone Gimbal $136 (was $160)

DJI Osmo Mobile 7P Smartphone Gimbal $126 (was $149)

Belkin Portable Charger $75 (was $100)

Anker Portable Charger $30 (was $55)

Miscellaneous

Finally, there are plenty of other accessories worth picking up that don't fit neatly in the categories above. Here are more items worth considering this Prime Day, including my favorite way to easily display photos in my home (the Aura Carver).

Aura Carver Mat 10" Digital Picture Frame $141 (was $179)

K&F Concept 5-in-1 Light Reflector 32"(80cm) Photography Diffuser $18 (was $23)

500+ SmallRig products Up to 30% off

takasuu / iStock / Getty Images Plus via Getty Images

US President Donald Trump has signaled his intent to move forward with new tariffs that will go into effect on August 1st, impacting imports from several countries. As reported by the Associated Press, Trump announced the tariffs by posting copies of letters addressed to leaders of several countries, including Japan and Thailand – where many camera and lens manufacturers build products – on social media.

According to the letters, imports from Japan to the US will face tariffs of 25% and imports from Thailand will face tariffs of 36%.

The new tariffs aren't entirely unexpected. The Trump administration initially announced tariffs aimed at numerous countries back on April 2nd, including 24% on Japanese goods and 36% on imports from Thailand. However, it subsequently placed a 90-day pause on full tariff amounts on April 9th, setting a universal baseline tariff of 10%.

On Monday, US President Donald Trump posted copies of letters to leaders of several countries to Truth Social announcing new tariffs to go into effect on August 1st, including this letter to Japanese Prime Minister Ishiba Shigeru.

As a result, US consumers have experienced increased prices on some camera products, with companies like Sigma, Canon, Nikon and Sony raising prices accordingly over the past few months.

The new August 1st deadline effectively adds three additional weeks to the 90-day pause announced in April, though given the unpredictability we've seen until now, it's possible that things could change again before the new tariffs go into effect. If not, US consumers could experience additional price hikes on many photography products due to the additional tariffs.

It's important to note that not all cameras and lenses are produced in these countries. Many companies have moved a significant portion of manufacturing to other Asian countries in recent years, including China, which is experiencing its own trade conflict with the US. Notably, Tamron began operating a new factory in Vietnam in February. Last week, the Trump administration announced a new trade deal to charge 20% tariffs on imports from that country, less than the 46% tariffs originally announced in April.

Amazon Prime Day is officially underway through July 11, and with it comes discounts of all sorts. Those sales include a selection of cameras and lenses, so if you're looking to upgrade your kit, pick up a new camera or expand your lens selection, now is a good time to do so.

Unfortunately, most camera brands recently increased prices in the US because of tariffs, and, as a result, many of the Prime Day deals are just a dip back to pre-tariff pricing. But that's still better than nothing, and it would be smart to buy now before prices go back up. Additionally, if there were better deals on other websites, we've linked to those instead. We'll also be updating this throughout the week, so be sure to check back to see what's new.

Sony cameras and lenses

Sony has the most gear on sale this Prime Day. This isn't an exhaustive list, with many additional models on sale. All of the camera and lens deals are also live on Sony's website, so you can check them out there, too. Some of the items below are older generation models, but they are still worth picking up in our opinion.

Sony a1 $5398 (was $5900)

Sony a7R V $3798 (was $4200)

Sony a7R IV $2998 (was $3400)

Sony a7S III $3498 (was $3800)

Sony a7 IV $2198 (was $2700)

Sony a7C II $2198 (was $2400)

Sony a6700 $1398 (was $1500)

Sony ZV-E10 II $1000 at Sony (was $1100)

Sony 24-50mm F2.8 G $1098 (was $1200)

Sony 20-70mm F4 G $1098 (was $1200)

Sony 24-70 mm F2.8 GM $1598 (was $1698)

Sony 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS $1048 (was $2150)

Canon cameras and lenses

Canon's deals aren't specifically labeled as Prime Day ones, but there are still some deals worth checking out. Unfortunately, it's a very short list.

Canon EOS R5 II $3999 (was $4299)

Canon EOS R6 Mark II $1899 (was $1999)

Canon EOS R7 $1499 (was $1599)

Canon EOS R10 $949 (was $1049)

Canon EOS RP + RF24-105mm Lens F4-7.1 is STM Lens $999 (was $1399)

Canon RF135mm F1.8 L is USM $1799 at B&H (Was $2299)

Nikon cameras and lenses

Nikon also has very limited items on sale right now, unfortunately. But we've done some digging to find out what deals there are. Like the other brands, most of these prices are simply back to pre-tariff prices, though.

Nikon Z8 $3697 (was $4000)

Nikon Z6 III $2197 (was $2500)

Nikon Z7 II $1947 at B&H (was $2297)

Nikon NIKKOR Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S $2047 at B&H (was $2497)

Instant cameras

Instant cameras can be a fun change of pace. Polaroid currently has its offerings on sale, including some bundles with film.

Polaroid Now 2nd Generation I-Type Instant Camera + Film Bundle $115 (was $150)

Polaroid Now+ Generation 2 - Camera + Film Bundle $145 (was $175)

Polaroid Now+ 3rd Generation I-Type Instant Film Camera $120 (was $140)

Polaroid Now 3rd Generation I-Type Instant Film Camera $102 (was $120)

Action cameras

If you're looking to document your adventures this summer, an action camera may be the way to go. Luckily, some of the best out there are on sale during Prime Day.

DJI Osmo Action 4 Essential Combo $199 (was $289)

GoPro HERO13 Black Action Bundle $329 (was $500)

Insta360 X4 Standard Bundle $349 (was $500)

A Minolta? But didn't they leave the camera business years ago? The re-emergence of the Minolta brand in the US highlights some interesting quirks of the laws around trademarks.

Image: Minolta

In the wake of our look at the way Eastman Kodak allows its brand to be used on everything from solar panels to T-shirts, we've been looking at the way other historic camera brands are now being used.

In the case of Kodak, the company licensing the name has a continuous link back to the one that built the brand in the first place. Eastman Kodak may have sold its photo film business as part of its bankruptcy restructuring, but today's corporate entity is still based in Rochester, New York, and still focused on the way products sold in its name reflect on the rest of its business.

Use it or lose it

This isn't always the case, though. In most countries, trademarks only remain valid if they're being used and actively protected. If you aren't using a trademark or it can be shown that you aren't making efforts to defend it, then someone else can come along and challenge its use.

This is currently happening in Europe and the UK, where a Dubai-based property developer is arguing that the trademark James Bond hasn't been used by its owners for more than five years and hence should be cancelled. There's a comparable process in the US: an episode of NPR's Planet Money looked at the story of a man who's made a business out of challenging abandoned trademarks and re-launching previously defunct confectionery brands.

One of the last Konica Minolta products was the Dynax / Maxxum 7D, the world's first DSLR to feature in-body image stabilization. The company using the Minolta name today is not connected to the original Konica Minolta, which still operates in an array of industries.

Photo: DPReview.com

It's through this process that Minolta-branded cameras have started to appear recently in US stores such Costco, BestBuy and B&H Photo. The original owner, Konica-Minolta, sold its camera business to Sony in 2006, which initially used its technologies in a series of A-mount DSLRs before moving to its own E-mount mirrorless system, developed internally.

With Konica-Minolta out of the industry, Californian brand licensing company JMM Lee Properties challenged the trademark in 2015 and was awarded the right to use it for a range of photographic goods. JMM Lee's business model appears to be finding and claiming abandoned brand names, which it then licenses to other companies. For instance, if you want to get into the power tool business, JMM Lee can license you the Renault brand name for the US market.

'Minolta,' by Shenzen Soda Digital for Elite Brands

The Minolta brand is currently being licensed to New York-headquartered Elite Brands Inc, the US importer of Samyang lenses. So the cameras currently appearing in Costco are made for Elite Brands, which also licenses the Bell + Howell brand for some products.

Some of the Minolta-branded cameras share their specs with models offered by Asia Optical, a Taiwanese OEM manufacturer that has been making Kodak-branded cameras for JK Imaging for over a decade.

Other models include the $99 Minolta MND23, a camera described as a 48MP point and shoot with 16X digital zoom and the ability to capture 4K UHD video. A closer look at the specs shows it to have a 13MP sensor from Sony Semiconductor (very probably a Type 1/3, 17mm² chip) that can shoot 4K resolution at up to 10fps.

The Minolta MND70 shares its specs with the Songdian DC203S, made by Shenzhen Soda Digital Technology.

Image: Minolta

The 3.37mm F2.2 lens and the presence of a second, 'selfie' sensor on the back of the camera matches the specs of a lens that appears in a variety of products from Chinese maker Shenzhen Soda Digital Technology Co.

And, similarly, the camera sold for $179 as the Minolta MND70 shares all its key specs, though with the same company's DC203. Just to give an idea of what that means for the well regarded Minolta name, Amateur Photographer's (and formerly DPReview's) Technical Editor bought a DC202, which lacks the 203's Wi-Fi and selfie camera, for around £40 (∼$54). He described it as 'the worst camera I've ever used."

With thanks to forum user ishwanu for background on the trademark cases.

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.

Updated: July 8th, 2025

Whether you're just sharing clips with friends or you're launching an online on-camera career, vlogging matters. And there's a point at which your smartphone may not give you the look, control, or flexibility you're after. With 180-degree selfie screens, wide-angle lenses, microphone inputs and great video quality, more and more dedicated cameras are catering to people who want to take video of themselves and post it online.

The meaning of vlogging has changed over the years, so our picks cover a variety of styles – we'll explain what makes each camera good for vlogging, and what key features each has that make taking video of yourself easier. We've also included videos shot on the cameras in question when we have them to give you an idea of what kind of performance to expect.

Our recommendations:

• Best camera for vlogging on the move: DJI Osmo Pocket 3
• A self-contained vlogging kit: Canon PowerShot V1
• For ambitious vloggers and videographers: Sony ZV-E10 II
• Best high-end vlogging pick: Sony ZV-E1

Best camera for vlogging on the move: DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Photo: Richard Butler $519 at B&H $519 at Amazon $519 at Adorama

DJI’s Osmo Pocket 3 is a stabilized handheld vlogging camera, designed for on-the-move vlogging. It’s built around a type 1 (13.2 x 8.8mm) sensor mounted on a tiny gimbal, meaning it can deliver stabilized footage with smoother motion than any conventional camera or phone.

The small sensor means the Pocket 3 works better in well-lit situations, though a reasonably bright F2.0 lens means it’s usable indoors, too.

It can shoot 4K 16:9 video or, by rotating the screen into the upright position, 3K vertical 9:16 footage. A small joystick lets you control the camera’s movement, and tapping the joystick button flips between the camera pointing toward you or away from you.

Its reliance on contrast-detection autofocus means its focus can be prone to hunting, though its face-detection mode works well enough that this is rarely a problem when talking to the camera.

In addition to the smooth stability of its gimbal and its genuine pocketability, one of the Osmo’s main benefits is that it’s compatible with a series of Bluetooth microphones, meaning you can capture good-quality audio without the need for additional transmitters or receivers.

The video quality isn’t always the highest, and the autofocus can occasionally lead to frustration, but overall the quality and convenience of the Pocket 3 as a package is really hard to beat.

Read our hands-on impressions of the Osmo Pocket 3

A self-contained vlogging kit: Canon PowerShot V1

16-50mm F2.8-4.5 zoom | 22MP 18x12mm Dual Pixel CMOS sensor | 4K/60 with crop

Buy now:

$979 at Amazon.comBuy at B&H PhotoBuy at Canon What we like:

• Attractive output in stills and video
• Versatile wide-angle zoom
• Fan for extended video recording

What we don't:

• Relatively large body
• Full width video has appreciable rolling shutter
• Optimized for vlogging vs stills

The Canon PowerShot V1 is a mid-sized vlogging compact with a relatively large sensor and wide zoom lens.

It offers a competitive suite of vlogging features, a built-in ND filter and good stabilization options. It's also comfortable to hold pointing towards you, and lets you access key settings from the touchscreen. It includes microphone and headphone jacks and a fan for extended recording sessions.

AF performance is good, with reliable tracking AF and effective subject recognition. The camera is generally pretty responsive, with the zoom reacting quickly to input. The V1's wide lens means you can crop-in for its 4K/60p mode and still maintain a wide-angle view. The full-sensor footage exhibits quite high levels of rolling shutter, so you may have to use the cropped 50/60p mode for capturing shots with lots of movement.

The V1 is a capable option with a useful zoom range, and there's a lot to be said for an all-in-one option. You do give up some flexibility for other types of filmmaking, but it should cover most of your bases when it comes to vlogging.

Read our full PowerShot V1 review

We also considered Sony's range of entry-level vlogging cameras with Type 1 sensors, the ZV-1, ZV-1F, and ZV-1 II. The latter is the best pick of the bunch, given its wideangle zoom lens and built-in ND, but it's hard to recommend. Its quality will be slightly better than that of a flagship phone, but if you're going to be carrying an extra gadget around anyway, it's probably best to spend a bit more for a more flexible or capable camera.

For ambitious vloggers and videographers: Sony ZV-E10 II

26MP APS-C sensor | Full-width 4K/24p, 1.1x crop 4K/60p video | Fully articulating screen

Buy now:

$1098 w/ 16-50 at Amazon.com$1098 w/ 16-50 at B&H PhotoBuy at MPB What we like:

• Reliable, accurate autofocus
• Good rolling shutter performance
• Plenty of video options, including 10-bit

What we don't:

• No in-body stabilization
• Doesn't includes Sony's latest and greatest AF
• Not fun for photography

The Sony ZV-E10 II is focused on vlogging, with solid 4K/24p and 4K/60p shooting capabilities, and a suite of features for taking footage of yourself. The ZV-E10 II has an excellent grip, easy-to-hit buttons and a touchscreen that lets you control the most important settings without turning the camera around. The zoom rocker is great for power zoom lenses. Subject tracking autofocus is fast, sticky, and accurate, though it doesn't have all the modes available on other Sony cameras. Product showcase prioritizes items held up in front of your face and has lots of options. Menus are easy to learn and responsive, and battery life is good. The ZV-E10 II pairs useful, video-focused features with excellent hardware, making it an excellent vlogging camera depending on your style. The rolling shutter performance is good, bordering on excellent. The lack of IBIS can make handheld footage look shakey, and electronic stabilization is only useful for stable shots. The built-in microphone is good, and the camera has headphone and mic jacks. The ZV-E10 II brings many – but not all – of the a6700's vlogging features to a more compact and less expensive body. If you can live without IBIS and built-in ND, it's a solid interchangeable lens vlogging camera.

Read our full review of the Sony ZV-E10 II

Potential alternatives?

We also considered Canon's (noticeably cheaper) EOS R50V, but chose the Sony because of its much faster sensor that provides better rolling shutter performance and requires less cropping to shoot at 4K/60. We also looked at Nikon's Z30, but its lack of headphone socket and 10-bit video means we lean towards the Sony. The Nikon Z50II has strong video specs and some of the features the Z30 lacks, such as a headphone jack, but its form factor and heavy crop in its 4K/60 mode make it not particularly well-suited to vlogging.

Best high-end vlogging camera: Sony ZV-E1

Full-width 4K/60p, 120p with minor crop | Auto cropping/framing modes | Subject recognition AF

Buy now:

$2199 at Amazon.com$2198 at Adorama$2198 at B&H Photo What we like:

• 4K footage up to 120p
• Auto-cropped modes aid one-person operation
• Effective autofocus

What we don't:

• Recording times can be short in warm conditions
• 12MP resolution not optimal for stills
• Cropped footage is upscaled to 4K

The Sony ZV-E1 is a full-frame E-mount mirrorless camera aimed at vloggers and ambitious content creators.

It has pretty much everything a vlogger would need: Sony's class-leading autofocus, a front tally light, a stabilized sensor, 4K/60 with no crop and excellent rolling shutter performance. It also has features that make shooting alone easier, such as its auto framing mode that dynamically zooms in on the subject in a frame, much like a cameraperson would, and the product showcase mode that overrides the face detection AF when you're clearly trying to show the camera something.

The ZV-E1 has two command dials, both on the back of the camera, which makes manual video control a little fiddly, there's a touchscreen-led interface to encourage more automated presenter/operator working, though. The ZV-E1's subject recognition system is highly reliable. The lack of a fan means it's much more susceptible to overheating than the otherwise similar FX3. It adds automated modes that crop and follow a recognized subject around the frame, adding dynamism to single-operator footage. "The ZV-E1 has some clever automated modes but can be a bit fiddly to operate. It's hard to match the power for the price, though" The camera's 4K footage (up to 120p) is detailed with relatively little rolling shutter, but you'll want to use the strongest level of image stabilization (with crop) for hand-held shooting as it's a little juddery in less intensive modes. The ZV-E1 tries to marry the capability of the FX3 cinema camera with automated ease-of-use, but can end up being quite confusing in the auto modes and quite fiddly if you try to take a more hands-on approach. It's hard to match the power for the price, though.

Read our initial review of the Sony ZV-E1

A cheaper competitor

If your budget doesn't quite stretch as far as the ZV-E1 requires, the Panasonic S9 may be a decent option that costs around $1000 less. It, too, has a stabilized, full-frame sensor, though it lacks a headphone jack and some of the vlogging-specific features Sony includes. While its sensor can shoot at higher-than-4K resolutions for more flexibility in post, its slower readout means you'll have to deal with a crop when shooting 4K/60, and will have to be aware of rolling shutter.

Buy now:

$1799 w/ 18-40mm at Amazon.com$1498 at Adorama$1798 w/ 18-40mm at B&H Photo Why you should trust us

This buying guide is based on cameras used and tested by DPReview's editorial team. We don't select a camera until we've used it enough to be confident in recommending it, usually after our extensive review process. The selections are purely a reflection of which cameras we believe to be best: there are no financial incentives for us to select one model or brand over another.

Photo: Jaromir / Moment via Getty Images

Summertime is ripe with photographic opportunities thanks to longer days and warmer weather. Many of us flock to the outdoors this time of year, whether to capture landscapes, document weddings or photograph animals. But with this extra time outside with our cameras comes added risk to our gear due to chemicals found in bug spray and sunscreen. While those products may be essential for protecting your body, they can damage your expensive gear. If you'll be lathering up with sunscreen or bug spray this summer, here are some things to remember.

Impacts of DEET bug spray Photo: Lokibaho / iStock Unreleased via Getty Images

Many bug sprays use DEET to keep pesky (and potentially dangerous) pests away. While that's sometimes necessary to stay safe, DEET is a plasticizer. That means it can soften, deform or even dissolve certain plastics and rubber, especially if you're using a high-concentration version of it.

Of course, cameras and lenses are largely made up of plastics and rubber, so exposing your gear to DEET-based bug spray can result in deterioration of your gear. Damage from DEET could simply take the form of dissolved labels on buttons and markings on your lenses. But it could be far more substantial, potentially melting parts of your camera or lens body.

Even a small amount of DEET on your hands could be enough to have an impact. To keep your gear safe, don't spray bug spray anywhere near cameras or lenses. It's best to keep the camera in your bag or the car until you're done applying. If you get DEET bug spray on your hands, wash them off as well as you can before handling your camera. Also, if you use the viewfinder, make sure you don't get any DEET on your face.

Even a small amount of DEET on your hands could be enough to have an impact.

If DEET bug repellent gets on your camera, make sure to act quickly. The sooner you clean it off, the less damage there will be. Don't use a dry cloth to wipe it off, either, as that could spread the chemical and potentially push it into seams or textured surfaces, causing more damage. Instead, lightly dampen a clean cloth and gently blot to remove the DEET. Use a fresh corner of the fabric for different parts of the camera to avoid spreading it.

If you want to be extra cautious, you can avoid DEET altogether by using a Picaridin-based bug spray – research has found that it doesn't damage plastics – or by wearing clothing treated with Permethrin. While both chemicals (and DEET) have been proven to be safe for use on humans, we couldn't find any conclusive studies about their safety for pets, so it's worth exercising some caution when using these products around cats or dogs. Always read the safety label for whatever insect repellent you're using.

Take care with sunscreen, too Photo: Oscar Wong / Moment via Getty Images

While sunscreen isn't as harmful as DEET, it isn't very kind to cameras, either. Some chemicals found in certain sunscreens may potentially interact with plastics, causing them to degrade faster, though there is limited research on the subject. However, all sunscreens can cause discoloration and leave residue. Plus, it can make things downright slippery, which isn't ideal when working with expensive gear. And that greasy residue on your lens won't be great for image quality if it's on your lens.

As with bug repellent, it's best to apply sunscreen well away from your camera. That's especially true of aerosol sunscreens, which go everywhere. Once you're done applying, be sure to wash your hands, ideally with soapy water or hand sanitizer, to break down the oils.

If you get sunscreen on your camera, you'll want to clean it off as soon as possible. When you're still out and about, you can use hand wipes or a cloth with some hand sanitizer to clean it off. You could also use a cloth with a small amount of dishwashing liquid and water.

If there's sunscreen on your lens, make sure you use a cleaning solution made for optics, as you don't want to remove the special coatings. Disposable lens wipes are always ideal to have on hand in such situations, as then you don't have to worry about spreading it around more the next time you use your lens cloth.

When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.

Don't let the similarities fool you: there is essentially no overlap between what the X100 and X half cameras offer.

Photo: Richard Butler

The Fujifilm X half isn't a camera where absolute image quality is fundamental to its appeal. And if that idea seems anathema to you - 'a camera? where image quality isn't neccessarily paramount?' - I'd suggest you don't read any further.

To some extent, it doesn't really make sense to subject the X half to our standard testing: it's like analyzing the nutritional value figures of cotton candy / candyfloss / fairy floss.

However, given the X half uses a sensor that's many times larger than those used in the likes of the Yashica Y35 – and other cameras designed for fun, as much as photographic competency – we thought it was worth seeing how it performs. Especially as it also costs a fair bit more than most other 'fun' cameras on the market.

It's like analyzing the nutritional value figures of candyfloss

Also, given its stylistic similarities with the larger, much more serious X100 cameras, we wanted to be able to make clear just how big the difference is.

So, despite being aware of the foolishness of the task, we committed outselves to trying to align and shoot a camera whose small, low-res screen and lack of custom white balance setting meant it was likely to be something of a handful. And whose images come out the wrong way 'round.

In practice we were pleasantly surprised: quickly discovering a Kelvin white balance setting that gave a near-perfectly neutral result, and finding its contrast-detection AF gave very consistent results, shot-to-shot. A quick look at the EXIF data allowed us to over-write the orientation metadata tag and present the images in the landscape format without having to re-save or re-encode the image and risk changing the image quality.

Studio test scene Image ComparisonThis widget is not optimized for RSS feed readers. Click here to open it in a new browser window / tab.

At the center of the chart, the X half's images look broadly comparable to those of the RX100 series, with its similarly sized sensor and pixel count (the X half uses a 4:3 crop from a 3:2 sensor), appreciably behind the much larger X100VI sensor but ahead of a traditional Type 1/2.3 compact.

The performance drops away as you get further from the center of the image, with the Fujifilm not showing the level of fine detail that the RX100 does.

The difference becomes less pronounced as the light levels fall and ISO has to rise, and the gap between the Type 1 sensor Fujifilm and Sony and the small sensor compact grows.

The X half's sensor is around 4x larger than the one in the Panasonic FZ80 (and around 6x the size of the Type 1/3 sensors in the likes of the Yashica FX-D 100, Kodak C10 and Minolta MND 23), and consequently it gives a result around two stops better than the smaller sensor camera (and in the region of two stops behind the X100VI).

Summary

The results are broadly what we'd expect, in terms of noise and image quality. Despite the use of a prime lens, the X half isn't pulling out nearly as much detail from its captures as the RX100 is. But it's fair to say that pixel-peeping with a camera like the X half isn't a rational way to spend one's time. After all, it's a camera that doesn't even pretend to take itself seriously (we almost wonder whether its lack of Raw recording it to avoid giving off mixed messages about its intent, rather than anything so prosaic as a lack of processing power).

A more pertinent line of enquiry might be how the X half's images look, compared to an RX100's, once resized and recompressed for the social media platforms they're designed to be shared through. Because if you're planning on printing its images on anything other than Instax (or, at most, a 6 x 4), then you're making even stranger choices with your life than we are.

Steam rises over the rim of the Kilauea Volcano crater on the Big Island of Hawaii at sunrise. I rose early to catch the morning light, but hadn't anticipated the steam rising from the volcano below. Lucky me.

Samsung NX1 | NX 16-50mm F2-2.8 S | F8 | 1/640 sec | ISO 100
Photo: Dale Baskin

The theme for our July Editors' photo challenge is "Landscape Photography."

This is your chance to show us your favorite landscape photos featuring the beauty of the natural world. From sweeping vistas to creative compositions, we want to see your most stunning shots where the natural world is the main focus.

This challenge is also open to stitched panoramas.

Photos can be submitted between Sunday, July 6, and Saturday, July 12 (GMT). The challenge is open to photos captured at any time.

Important: Images MUST include a title and a caption of at least 25 words to be eligible. We need to be able to share the story behind your photo. We will consider both photos and captions when selecting our winners, so make sure to tell us that story!

Visit the challenge page to submit your photo to the challenge. Winners will be featured on the DPReview homepage later this month.

Submit your photo to the Landscape challenge

International Aerial Photographer of the Year winners

With affordable drones making aerial photography accessible to virtually anyone, the number of photographers shooting from above has skyrocketed.

This boom didn't go unnoticed by Peter Eastway and David Evans, organizers of the International Landscape Photographer of the Year Awards. Inspired by this growth in aerial photography, they established a dedicated competition: The International Aerial Photography of the Year Awards.

The 2025 competition drew over 1500 entries from around the globe, with American photographer Joanna Steidle winning top honors for her captivating images of marine life near her Southampton, New York, home.

We're excited to share some of the winning images from this year's competition. The complete collection of 101 winning images is available as an e-book on the competition's website.

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 1st place

The judges selected photographer Joanna Steidle of the United States as the overall winner of the International Aerial Photographer of the Year Awards. Steidle, based in the Hamptons on Long Island, New York, submitted a portfolio of images featuring marine life photographed just 7-13km (4-6 miles) from her own home.

"Growing up, I never saw whales or dolphins from the shore," explains Steidle. "But due to conservation efforts, our coastline has rebounded with a plethora of sea creatures in the past few years."

Photographer: Joanna Steidle, United States

Title: Another World

Description: A fever of cownose rays approaching a school of menhaden bait fish, taken just a few hundred feet from the coast of Southampton, NY. USA.

Copyright Joanna Steidle / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 1st place

Photographer: Joanna Steidle, United States

Title: Concerto

Description: A small fever of cownose rays stirring up sand along their travels. Taken in Southampton, NY, USA, just a few hundred feet from the coast.

Copyright Joanna Steidle / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 1st place

Photographer: Joanna Steidle, United States

Title: The Gateway

Description: A spinner shark hunting in a school of menhaden bait fish in the Atlantic Ocean, Southampton, NY, USA.

Copyright Joanna Steidle / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 1st place

Photographer: Joanna Steidle, United States

Title: Diving

Description: A humpback whale diving back under the surface of the Atlantic Ocean after taking a breath of air. This was taken within 500ft of the coast in Southampton, NY, USA.

Copyright Joanna Steidle / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 2nd place

Photographer: Daniel Viñé Garcia, Spain

Title: Smoking Skull

Description: Iceland's Fagradalsfjall volcano as it cooled. The cracking pattern of the lava formed a skull, creating an eerie natural illusion for a few moments.

Copyright Daniel Viñé Garcia / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 2nd place

Photographer: Daniel Viñé Garcia, Spain

Title: The Nipple of the Earth

Description: A dormant volcano in the high-altitude Puna of Argentina reveals intricate erosion patterns sculpted by wind and time.

Copyright Daniel Viñé Garcia / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 3rd place

Photographer: David Swindler, United States

Title: Flamingos and Pelicans

Description: Dark skies provide a dramatic background as sunlight highlights a desert butte.

Copyright David Swindler / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photographer of the Year: 3rd place

Photographer: David Swindler, United States

Title: Flamingos Over a Lake

Description: Seven flamingos fly over the dark waters and patterns of a lake.

Copyright David Swindler / The Inaugural International Aerial Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photograph of the Year: 1st place

Photographer: Ignacio Palacios, Australia

Title: Cono de Arita

Description: Anti-crepuscular rays at Cono de Arita, La Puna, Argentina.

Copyright Ignacio Palacios / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photograph of the Year: 2nd place

Photographer: Talor Stone, United States

Title: Tree of Ice

Description: An aerial perspective of glacial calving reveals an unexpected organic pattern in the water. Northeast Greenland National Park.

Copyright Talor Stone / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year

Aerial Photograph of the Year: 3rd place

Photographer: Thomsa Vijayan, Canada

Title: Austfonna Ice Cap

Description: The Bråsvellbreen glacier, part of the Austfonna Ice Cap in Svalbard. Early melting and powerful waterfalls reveal the urgent reality of climate change – reminding us what’s at stake if we fail to act.

Copyright Thomas Vijayan / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year

The Black and White Award

Photographer: Barbara Brown, Australia

Title: The Tempest

Description: Salt lake, Goldfields region of Western Australia

Copyright Barbara Brown / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year

The Drone Award

Photographer: Pål Hermansen, Norway

Title: Relax after the Meal

Description: Polar bear on Svalbard after eating on a walrus carcass. Thanks to the drone with a telephoto lens, this rare scene could be captured without any disturbance. Svalbard, Norway.

Copyright Pål Hermansen / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year

The Abstract Award

Photographer: Colin Leonhardt, Australia

Title: Twisted Owl

Description: Alumina mine tailings dam near Collie, Western Australia.

Copyright Colin Leonhardt / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year

The Chairman's Award

Photographer: Fabien Guittard, France

Title: Above the Ice

Description: Two seals lounging peacefully on a drifting slab of ice in the Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon, southern Iceland.

Copyright Colin Leonhardt / The International Landscape Photographer of the Year